Into Idaho

Leaving Moab, we traveled north through Utah to our next overnight stop in the Uinta-Wasatch National Forest, some 50 miles north of Salt Lake City. The Box Elder Campground is a simple National Park with no hook-ups and is located just 5 miles off of the interstate. As we hiked around the campground we were treated to several extended fields of orange poppies that felt as though Dorothy and her companions had just been there on their way to Oz. We’re not used to seeing fields of poppies and they were truly a special visual treat.

On the day that we left Box Elder we visited the Bear River Migratory Bird Refuge on the north end of the Great Salt Lake. Though June is not a primary migration period, we did see several large gatherings of White Pelicans that are there nesting at this time of year. The 7 mile loop road around the refuge is dirt and gravel so slow going. Entry is free and the loop road is open dawn to dusk.

At this point we had made a change to our itinerary. Originally planning to spend a couple of days in Jackson Hole, Wyoming, we decided that the week before July 4^th might be too crowded there and on recommendation of our nephew who has worked for the Forest Service and lives in Montana, we chose to go north through Idaho instead. (We’ve also previously been to Jackson Hole and we are always looking to explore new places) Planning this next phase involved plotting our expected distances per day and specific attractions along this path.

Note: I will discuss how we planned this entire journey in a later posting.

Driving north into Idaho was a visual pleasure. The southern Idaho mountains are like no other mountains we have seen. They roll into one another in a soft, almost cloud- like pattern and reminded me of the drawings in the children’s book “Nimby”, where clouds align with the land to form dreamlike geometric patterns. Beyond these soft and inviting mountain hills; however, were the more foreboding snow caps at 10-12,000’.

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First stop in Idaho was the Craters of the Moon National Monument and Preserve, a park that geologist Harold Sterns described in 1923 as a place where “the dark craters and the cold lava were nearly destitute of vegetation.” This volcanic park was created by a series of deep fissures, known collectively as the Great Rift, that cross the Snake River plain. Beginning 15,000 years ago lava welled up to produce this vast ocean of rock, and though activity is dormant now, geologists believe that future events are likely. There are hiking trails, both long and short and the first picture below is from the Inferno Cone, a short, but very steep hike up a cone shaped mound of cinder and stone.

Traveling northwest from Craters of the Moon, we begin to slowly climb into the Sawtooth Range through the ski towns of Hailey, Sun Valley and Ketchum. This area is known as a playground for the rich and famous and the homes, shops, and general feel of the towns does in fact convey that. Shopping in the local supermarket in Ketchum clearly confirmed that!!

After filling our pantry with supplies, we traveled just a few miles north of Ketchum to a most relaxing and calming campsite at North Fork Campground. Our campsite is alongside the Big Wood River, a fast moving waterway expanded with the snow melt from the mountains that surround this valley. All of the west received an over- abundance of snow this past winter and the creeks and run-off will be rolling for months to come. In fact, it snowed in the higher mountains again just this past week. ( Breckenridge, Co. received 10” of fresh snow) The sound of the river outside our windows is like the cooing of a babe in the arms of a mom. It is calming, relaxing and meditative and brings us both a certain peace. There are campgrounds along the side of Highway 75 all through Idaho. These are no frills campsites with vault toilets and potable water faucets. They are inexpensive, wooded, beautifully cared for and convenient for quick, overnight stops. North Fork is also adjacent to the Harriman Trail, a popular 20 mile hiking/biking trail in the Ketchum region of the Sawtooth Range.

After leaving the Ketchum region, we begin a slow ascent to Galena Summit, a mere 8,990’ above sea level. This summit puts you in the depths of the Sawtooth Range and though a rather winding, narrow road, the climb is neither terribly long nor arduous. The views; however, are outstanding and showcase the true magnitude of the Sawtooth.

Continuing north on Rt. 75, we were instructed that a must see is the Redfish Lake Recreation area. Little Redfish Lake first greets you as you approach this alpine lake with exceptional background views of the Sawtooth Range.

Shortly after passing Little Redfish, you begin to see the massive expanse of Redfish Lake, 4.5 miles long by .75 miles wide, with a maximum depth of 387’ and 11 miles of shoreline. The lake is named for the brilliant sockeye salmon that once returned from the Pacific Ocean in such massive quantities that the lake shimmered red during spawning season.  Grand Mogul mountain at 9,733’ and Mount Heyburn at 10,229’ surround this beautiful lake that offers camping, boating and hiking. The visitor’s center is an ideal place to begin your exploration of this vast recreation site.

Leaving Red Fish we continued north to the town of Stanley, Idaho where we had been told of a magnificent view from the hill where the local school is located. It did not disappoint. The surrounding mountains do indeed resemble the teeth of a saw, hence Sawtooth Range. The peaks are jagged, steep, foreboding ridges that are dotted with snow at 9,000’ plus. These mountain tops remind us of the Grand Tetons in Wyoming, though far deeper and wider than the steep peaks of the Tetons.  The town of Stanley is a tourist stop that is all dirt roads once you leave the highway. The roads are rutted and pocked with washboard chatter that will slow you down but Wall Street, the road that leads up to the school, is worth the bumps. The 360 degree view is remarkable and unfettered by buildings or power lines.

From Stanley we follow the Salmon River easterly through a tight, narrow canyon for 55 miles to our next destination, Challis, Idaho. This particular canyon is a glorious slice of this mountainous state. The “River of No Return”, the Salmon travels for 425 miles through central Idaho dropping more than 7,000 feet from its headwaters near Galena Summit. As we follow the river, we can see groups of rafters in the cold waters below, as well as steep cliffs, sheer drop-offs and few places to pass. This road requires attentiveness and a certain calm for the speed. It is not to be driven fast, nor can you appreciate the grandeur of this valley at anything but a leisurely pace. There are also a number of natural hot springs along this route that are available to the passing motorist but come up so quickly that it is hard to stop in time. Planning for the springs would be advised.

We are heading to a hot springs/campground in Challis, called…..the Challis Hot Springs. This tranquil retreat offers tent camping as well as FHU RV Camping and is located between the base of the Lost River Range of low, craggy hills and the Salmon River. Many of the sites are shaded and all have access along a short path to the river. But the reason one goes to this campground is for the 2 hot spring pools. One is tempered with cool water to around 101 degrees, the other is closer to its natural temp ranging from 105-109. The pools are concrete walled with gravel bottom allowing the geothermal waters to migrate through the stone and into the pools. Both pools are large enough to accommodate the many people who come here and though the cooler pool was a bit more crowded, the soothing/healing waters more than compensate for the bit of noise from the families and in particular, young children. The campground is on the higher end of costs as they have a very captive and eager audience. ($40/night)

After two days at Challis Hot Springs, we traveled to Missoula, Montana, a 5 hour drive where we were to rendezvous with our family for a week long family reunion.

Day one in Missoula involved a chair lift ride to the summit of Snowbowl Mountain Ski Resort, followed by a 5 mile hike back to the base. The base lodge at Snowbowl, a local favorite, offers a wonderful, sunny deck serving gourmet pizzas and bloody mary’s, the perfect pre hike beverage! Though this hike from the summit was a solid half- day affair, it was mostly downhill and not terribly straining on the knees. The intimacy of feet on the ground gives one a far greater appreciation for the land upon which we are mere visitors.

The next great adventure was white water rafting the Alberton Gorge of the Clark Fork River. Though this is a family friendly river trip, it does provide enough thrills for the water lover and adventurer. There are class II & III rapids and depending on your river guide and how your team rows, the trip can be very exciting. Since the river is quite cold, it is recommended that you plan your trip on a warm day, though wet suits are available for rent. You will get wet and if warm enough, as our day was, you can swim in the river or jump off of a 15’ high rock perched above the river. FYI: we did see rafts with children that appeared to be 9-10 years old. We rafted with the Lewis and Clark Trail Adventures, Missoula Office. Total cost per adult is $57 for a half day float, $75 for a full day with lunch.  We tipped our guide $10/pp as he was very personable and knowledgeable about the terrain, history and the river itself and went out of his way to “bump” the rapids for our pleasure.

The wonderful area around Missoula is made to be explored. It is surrounded by mountains and rivers and extraordinary scenery.

From Missoula we are headed to Glacier National Park, straddling the border with Canada, and then into British Columbia. I am not certain about the WIFI into the Canadian Provinces so not really sure about the timing on my next posting. Stay tuned and I hope we can bring you up to date somewhere between the US/Canadian border and Fairbanks, Alaska. Until the next time, Peace.

Jay